Borough Market in the Times of Covid-19
By Will Jarvis, Head of Content @ Vidi Guides
As the UK delves into its second wave of Covid-19, people across the country are reassessing how social lives, grocery shopping and trade will, once again, transform as we trudge through this tired, tiered autumn. However, while the rest of us are bracing ourselves for Lockdown the sequel, Borough Market has social distancing and quarantined shopping figured out.
In the midst of high street shopping dwindling and restaurants only able to fit one evening meal per table, Borough has remained both bustling and safe as 2020 has rolled on by. So, how has this thousand-year-old market managed to adapt with the times, and what can the rest of us learn from Borough Market?
A History of Change
Astonishingly, Borough Market began life as an embarrassment to the City of London. Located south of the river, outside the old city walls, this putrid strip of carts and cattle blocked visitors making their way into England’s capital. This eventually ended during the 18th century when the market was forced off Borough Street, which continues over London Bridge, and moved west to its current site.
The market was forced to change once again as London Bridge station expanded and railways chopped the tops off surrounding buildings. Tensions grew over the course of the 19th century as the market became pinned down by this maze of railways as viaducts rattled from trains hurtling past. However, the market took this in its stride and, today, even use these viaducts for its own benefit, such as by using the cool, dark brick railway arches as cheese maturing rooms.
Finally, in the 20th century, the emergence of massive supermarket brands killed off greengrocers and independent vendors across the UK, steadily leading to the demise of this beloved market. However, Borough adapted one more time and, in the 1990s, an exciting new wave of specialised shops and vendors opened up that offered shoppers distinct, high quality produce that supermarkets couldn’t. These included the likes of Monmouth Coffee, Neal’s Yard Dairy and Brindisa’s Iberico meats and, before long, the market was back in full swing and leading the march into the 21st century.
Socially distanced Foodhalls
During the 2010s, something happened to eating out that no one quite predicted – the rise of the Foodhall. In the age of Instagram, expensive rent and the desire for more and more choice, Foodhalls captured this dynamic, millennial desire to pick and choose what you ate, while being able to sit (or stand) around the same table with mates who might’ve gone for something different. Already rich in atmosphere and with a great selection of food and drink, Borough Market jumped on this bandwagon and opened its own communal dining space in November 2019 – the Kitchen.
A mix of familiar favourites and exciting newcomers, this cosy courtyard welcomes city workers, Instagram influencers and food aficionados alike thanks to the quality of the dishes and the aesthetically pleasing atmosphere. Whether it’s Shuk’s Tel Aviv style sharing platters or Khanom Krok’s signature pancakes, there’s no wrong answer at the Kitchen. The majority of the ingredients used in the dishes are even sourced from the market, encouraging selfsufficiency within Borough.
Foodhalls have also become a surprisingly effective market in this era of social distancing and early closing times. Book a table at a restaurant and customers expect to have that command post for at least an hour, hopefully two or three. However, while pubs and restaurants are struggling to squeeze in two sittings a night, Foodhalls and stands can serve high quality dishes without worrying about customers making camp for the evening - more movement means more money!
Returning to its Roots
The Kitchen isn’t Borough Market’s only trick up its sleeve during this damned Plague. While Borough did have a reduced capacity and asked visitors to don masks while strolling through the market, its community spirit remains as tangible as ever and a new (or very old) purpose has now arisen for Borough: feed local Londoners!
Taking part in a new charity initiative to help feed staff in nearby hospitals, Borough has been a surprise savour for many of the surrounding Southwark community. People visiting these days are less likely to treat themselves to a flat white or whiskey sour and instead come by for the essentials: bread, meat and veg!
Turnips became the neighbourhood’s go-to-spot for fresh fruit and veg, something the vendor excels at, while Bread Ahead put their baking classes online as they doubled down to produce brilliant bread available to everyone. Less footfall and tourism has allowed this ancient market to return to its roots and offer local Londoners a high quality selection of produce to purchase and take home for breakfast, lunch and dinner, simple as.
Borough Market Online
Looking at the recent success of Deliveroo and UberEats, Borough Market is tossing its hat into the ring with Borough Market Online, a fantastic system that give customers a wide selection of British and international produce from a range of Borough Market’s traders. Never turning down technology or change, this latest innovation has thrived in this socially distant era and kept many traders afloat as they are given the opportunity to provide for those who are still after high quality produce.
This has been especially popular for those after a tipple or two, with wine merchants like the Cartwright Brothers and Borough Wines shipping some of their finest bottles straight to your front door, while beer lovers can stop resorting to their standard 6 pack of Stella and select from some of Utobeer’s finest craft ales and lagers.
Visit https://www.goodsixty.co.uk/borough-market today to see what’s on offer right now.
From its very foundation, Borough Market has been a plucky underdog prepared to change and innovate in the face of modernity and hardship. By keeping an eye on how other companies have adapted while still retaining its distinct charm, Borough remains a shining example of how to transform and help others in uncertain times.
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