Explore The Backs of Cambridge

One of the most popular activities in Cambridge is to explore “The Backs.” You can discover The Backs by walking around, but in our opinion nothing can compare to exploring this amazing area of beauty through a Self Guided Walking Tour. The Backs is the landscaped area that runs along the River Cam, which is located in western Cambridge. 

The name “Backs” refers to the fact that several colleges of the University of Cambridge have buildings that back onto the river. Most of these colleges line the eastern shore of the river, and so from the large open gardens on the western edge you can experience unparalleled views of the universities historical halls. It is considered one of the most beautiful and picturesque places in Cambridge - definitely well worth a visit! The riverbanks are blanketed in daffodils and crocuses during the spring which is particularly lovely! 

If we go back 500 years, this area by the river consisted of open land used for growing crops and animal grazing. In 1772, St John’s College consulted famous English architect Lancelot Brown, who laid out a “wilderness” on the western edge of the river, still existing today. Today, The Backs is a Grade 1 Historic Park, recognised by “English Heritage” in 1995. 

Cambridge University is the fourth oldest surviving university in the world, comprising 31 different colleges. 8 of these can be glimpsed from the River today, and can be considered part of the The Backs. These are: 

• Darwin College (1964)

• Queen’s College (1448)

• King’s College (1441)

• Clare College (1326)

• Trinity College (1546)

• Trinity Hall (1350)

• St. John’s College (1511)

• Magdalene College (1428)

Photo by: @Andreadangelo

Here, we will compile a guide of what you see if you follow the River Cam from North to South on our Cambridge Self Guided Walking Tour: 

We start off this virtual tour by Darwin College, the youngest College along the river. It was originally founded by Trinity, St. John’s and Gonville & Caius joining together to form a graduate college. It is one of only two graduate-only colleges at the university.

Fun fact! Darwin college was the first mixed gender college at the university!

The penultimate college down the river is Queens’ College, formed by three queens between 1448 and 1485. Queens' most famous attraction is the Mathematical Bridge, built upon the principle of tangent-and-radial trussing which ensures its strength. Many will tell you that this was built by Sir Issac Newton, but please note he died in 1727. This bridge was actually built by James Essex (remember the name!) and connects the President's Lodge and Cripps court. Famous alumni include Stephen Fry!

King’s College is next up, the former home of Alan Turing. King’s College Bridge was originally built closer to the magnificent chapel but was believed to ruin the view, therefore it was moved further down the river in 1819. Right next door to the chapel is the Gibbs Building, and is said to have inspired the architecture of the White House itself! 

Photo by @Andreadangelo

Further down the river is Clare College, and is the second oldest here at Cambridge. Clare Bridge is the oldest surviving bridge on the river. The reason being, Oliver Cromwell destroyed the other bridges during the English Civil War, but maintained one so his troops could cross the river. Thank god for that! However, you might notice a missing section on one of the 14 stone balls which decorate the bridge. It is said that the bridge's architect, disgruntled at being paid the miniscule price of 15p for his work, took a slice of the stone in form of extra payment. On the right hand side, through the trees, you might glimpse Clare College Fellows’ Gardens, said to be the most beautiful in Cambridge. Something we are sure appreciated by alumni David Attenborough!

Then we come to Trinity College founded by Henry VIII just before his death. On the left hand side, we can see Wren Library, built by Sir Christpher Wren. You might notice the windows on the lower floor contain no glass and the books are all kept on the first floor. This is because Wren was afraid of the River Cam overflowing. Therefore, these windowless arches would allow water to run through the building without causing any damage. Smart! Charles, Prince of Wales and Isaac Newton are alumni of Trinity College. Next door is Trinity Hall, the former college of Steven Hawking. The ship-like Jerwood Library is the only part of Trinity Hall which can be seen from The Backs, and it is also the most recent building along the river. Around these colleges there are two bridges, firstly, Trinity College Bridge, built by James Essex (him again!). The next bridge is called the Garret Hostel Bridge, and was designed by a Cambridge student Timothy Guy Morgan, who won an architecture competition. What an honour! 

Moving on, we have Magdalene College. Early documents spell the name as “Maudleyn,” and even today it is pronounced “Maudlyn.” Notable alumni include famed diarist Samuel Pepys and author C.S.Lewis. To end our virtual journey, let's pass under Magdalene Bridge, here you are passing the exact spot of the first ever river crossing, dating to 731AD! And finally, on the right hand side, is St. John’s College. This is the second largest and second wealthiest college at Cambridge. The building on the western edge of the river is nicknamed the “Wedding Cake,” but you might notice the missing clock on the tower. There are many rumours as to why this tower is unfinished, but it remains a mystery! Connecting the two halves of St. John’s is The Bridge of Sighs, which has a “posh” and “plain” side, try and spot which is which. The best view of this beautiful bridge is from atop the next bridge to the south: Kitchen Bridge, which was originally designed by Christopher Wren. 

What is described above is a virtual tour down the river. To see these sites in person it is not possible to walk along the river on a Walking Tour because the land is private property divided up amongst the relevant colleges. You can enter the colleges, but normally there is an entrance fee. There are plenty of public bridges (Magdalene Bridge, Garret Hostel Bridge, Silver Street Bridge) that allow you to cross the river at various stages and therefore get glimpses of what is listed above. You can also walk along Queen’s Road, catching glimpses of the buildings through the trees. The only true way to see the full extent of the Backs is by “Punt” - a flat bottomed boat which is poled along. You can hire punts from Silver Street or Quayside, or there are chauffeur punts available too. Normally to rent a punt it costs between £20-£30 per hour, and a tour normally costs between £10-£20 per ticket. For the full experience, our recommendation is punting! While walking tours in Cambridge are a fantastic experience, punting is a very unique and traditional activity in Cambridge that you should not miss!

You can discover and download our Self Guided Cambridge Walking Tour Here! 

Happy exploring!